Re: The 20x20 saga...



*Cardboard*? Are you joking? I thought that junk had gone the way of teh dinosaurs. I saw it being used on townhouses in Maryland in the 80's - the stuff started to warp and fray (i.e come apart) even as the places were being built. Chunks would fall off the corners. OK< so they had a type of gum-wrapper-thin metal flashing on one side. Big deal. That also started to peel off even as the complexes were being built.
Just an "FYI".
I don't know whether plywood has a higher R value than does a solid piece of the same dimensions; I know that one of my woodworking books lists at least some info re: the R-value range for wood, want me to look that up? The info is for solid wood. I don't know where to find that info re: plywood, unless it's somewhere that Google (etc.) can find it.
HTH...
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- Kris M. Krieger

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Kris Krieger wrote:

Thanks Kris and Don...
As Kris and Don point out, that *ten-test* is the stuff parents and friends used, and yes I won't, I'll go 3/8 or 1/2 plywood on the exterior walls prior to erection, and pre-stain until owner decides the permanent clad. Thanks Ken
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[ ... ]

FWIW: What some of the more expensive houses here have, also many of the rehab of old (esp. as in, pre-1930's and back to the early Colonial period of history), is something called "Tyvek" put over the sheathing. SOmetiems it's only aaround the window frames, but I've occasionally seen it where looks as tho' it's put over *all* the sheathing. My guess is that it's some sort of vapor barrier, tho' I'd think it'd also cut down on drafts.
HTH -
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- Kris M. Krieger

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wrote:

Time for the experienced Specifier to step in: Tyvek is an "air barrier" over the sheathing, should completely cover surfaces, except for door and window etc. openings. Insulating sheathing works fine as long as plywood is used for first 4 ft ea way at each corner. This 4 ft is exclusive of openings. ie: if an openng is 2 ft from corner, plywood needs to extend to 2 ft on other side of opening. This plywood is for shear - wind resistance. Studs should be 2 x 6 to allow for insulation and air space. Foil faced insulation may be used to provide vapor barrier at interior face of studs. All vapor barrier joints must occur over solid backing and arranged around perimeter of openings so that subsequent construction will provide mechanical seal. Paper face on insulation is not a vapor barrier, regardless of what some claim. Paper faced insulation should be covered with minimum 6 mil polyethylene sheet to form vapor barrier on interior face of wall. It is not advisable to trust paneling to provide vapor barrier. You need taped seals, etc. around electric outlets and other penetrations. This is near impossible with a single material.
Rebel
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Rebel wrote:

Thanks, read this over a few times, a lot info. Some paneling is quite glazed and is readily washable, it *looks* like the amount of moisture going threw it would be nil. I suppose the manufacturer would know, the retailers don't, we asked. Of course doing outlets etc is always a pain. Ken
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Thanks, this is good to know! FWIW, what do you think of this new Insulating Paint? Is it worth it? Or would it mainly be used on older homes that don't have wall insulation?
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- Kris M. Krieger

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That's a great idea!
(I had used that foam after the fact in this place - it helped a lot but it *would* be easier to do it at the time of building...)
I'm saving all of these articles :)
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- Kris M. Krieger

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That actually made my stomach twist when I read it =>8-(p !!!
Sometimes it seems as though nobody gives a dang about anything :p
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- Kris M. Krieger

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Ah, OK, thanks for the info. Another useful bit to add to my "Wants" list for a dream house ("dream" including "no drafts" ;) ).

I hadn't heard of that one but it's always good to know what is *not* good, just in case it gets suggested somewhere along the line.
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