Framing required for 7x16 garage door?? Steel beam?


Hi, just wondering if I need a steel beam to go across the header for my planned garage door that I am going to frame into an existing detached workshop. Or, can I just use some 2x4s or 2x10s? Single story, shingle roof, wood siding, garage to be 7x16 feet, aluminum. Thanks,
Rob
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Use (2) 2x12's with a 1/2" plywood flitch plate, as long as there is not a concentrated load over it.
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Hi, thanks for the response... Do you mean a metal plate sandwiched between two 2x10s? Is this something I construct myself, or do I buy it this way? I'm also trying to picture how it would look when installed? A lot of garage doors in the area seem to have a visible piece of metal near the header, visible from the outside of the garage, that runs the length of the garage and is parallel to the horizon. I don't know what that is???
-r
wrote:

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Hi, I'm not designing the structure or the opening. I'm merely asking so that I can be knowledgeable when speaking with, or selecting contractors and also when determining if they are doing the job properly. I didn't plan on doing the job myself unless I felt it was within my sphere of experience which, thanks to many of the comments posted here and in other groups, I now feel confident that it really is not.
Cheers, Rob

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If you're using standard trusses or rafters and there is no concentrated load over the opening you can use a 1/2" plywood flitch plate. Nail it through with 3" (not 3-1/2") 16d's every 6" staggered (thats a lotta nails, use a gun), so you don't split the wood. Build the beam on the concrete floor than hoist it up into position. You'll need a friend or two to do the hoisting. Don't forget the DOUBLE jack studs on each end. If you're hiring profesionals to do this they already know how its done.
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bertbarndoor> wrote:

I have no idea what that is. Post a pik somewhere and I'll take a look. A flitch plate would not be visible because its BETWEEN the (2) 2x12's. You must be talking about some sort of external trimwork or something. Dunno.
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Ken S. Tucker> wrote:

I wouldn't wish that on YOUR worst enemy. Those things are basically junk. #3 dense wood, huge nominal spacings, cheap connectors, knots everywhere, etc. A friend has one and its windyer inside than out. Not much better than a tarp and some tent poles but alot more expensive.
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Ken S. Tucker> wrote: and those specs are written up in the local

Quit hogswitchin'. You know better than that.

You've SEEN that huh?
oky-doky.........
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"Ken S. Tucker"> wrote:

Frame it square and plumb, then sheath it in plywood with 8d ringshanks. This isn't rocketry, cave men did it.
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The header would be the same whether its attached or not.
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There's either trusses or rafters or a skyhook over the door.
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yes
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