Is there a way to avoid using door trims and mouldings? Personally I don't like them, but there has to be a way to solve the door jamb / rough drywall edge without using door trims?
Thanks,
MC
- posted
16 years ago
Door trims and mouldings
Loading thread data ...
- Vote on answer
- posted
16 years ago
Have you considered a casing bead to edge the drywall? T
- Vote on answer
- posted
16 years ago
Yeah, but you're getting into trick detailing because there are reasons for "trim". Joint coverage is just one of them. Traditionally detailed buildings tend to get thicker where they get more abuse, generally speaking.
- Vote on answer
- posted
16 years ago
"MiamiCuse" wrote in news:2umdnTzCq4SDzjDbnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@dsli.com:
Couldn't the area be filled in with the same drywall techniques used to patch a dent or hole, adding on those drywall corner-pieces used to hold the compound so as to smooth the corners...?
- Vote on answer
- posted
16 years ago
Yes my trim/moulding and pocket door threads are related. I do use door trims, but since I don't really like them, my trims and baseboards are all plain 5" wide square edged lumber. However on door openings all the way on one side (perpendicular to another wall), there is not much space on that side to accomodate a 5" trim. In that case I am thinking I can do away with trim completely around the doors instead of something asymmetrical. I understand it's difficult and may be not the most practical but I don't see another solution.
MC
- Vote on answer
- posted
16 years ago
and replace them with what? Yuo can produce an opening without a molding, but usually, whatever looked like wall over whatever was framing that door (say, drywall compound over wood) is at risk
- Vote on answer
- posted
16 years ago
What about holding the drywall back 5" and then flush mounting a 1/2" x ?" (chamfered/radiuses inside edges?). To hide the drywall/trim seam put a simple wainscot cap there. Then either paint the whole shebang to match the wall or (IMHO even better) paint the 1x the wall color and the cap a nice subtly different complimentary shade.
This will still be "casing" but (especially if painted to match the wall color) will blend with the wall surface much better.
Michael (LS)
- Vote on answer
- posted
16 years ago
Another 2 quick ideas:
- Use an extended jamb, very securely shimmed (and the shims all recessed - not cut off flush with the jamb). Stop the drywall ~1/2" short of the jamb. Insert a 3/4" or 1" corner moulding into the gap and tight to the jamb to cover the end of the drywall.
- Use an extended jamb with a daido groove for the drywall to die into.
It all boils down to there being lots of different options, but I would be concerned with "non wood" solutions not being able to withstand normal wear and tear.
Michael (LS)
- Vote on answer
- posted
16 years ago
Yep, when I first typed up that post I had typed ' 1/2" x 5" ' but then right before sending I decided that I'd leave the width up to the OP so I changed the "5" to "?".
Depending upon the width, partial blocking or a full stud might need to be installed. The OP doesn't want trim but he does need to understand what's involved with anything not "standard". There's a reason why almost all houses use casing of some kind/size. If he really wants to do away with it then he's in for a lot of work and expense. If this was new construction maybe it'd be worth it, but to go and retro-fit all existing window and doors with his chosen "non-standard casing" choice will be costly and time consuming.
Michael (LS)
- Vote on answer
- posted
16 years ago
"Don" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news3.newsguy.com:
I guess that answers that ;)
I'm still stuck on the notion of whether anyone has used something like brushed stainless as casements/frames... I have to see whether Google turns anything up.
- K.
- Vote on answer
- posted
16 years ago
Stainless? Like commercial windows & door systems?
- Vote on answer
- posted
16 years ago
When you say baseboards being 7/16 and casing 3/4 are you talking about width or thickness? I assume width? How thick?
Thanks,
MC
- Vote on answer
- posted
16 years ago
"Don" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news3.newsguy.com:
Yes, you hit the proverbial nail on its poor battered proverbial head ;)
No, seriously, that's a great example of what I'm picturing. THe shapes would be fairly sim[ple, but more than just flat plates or square tubes. ((I'm not quite into the "industrial warehouse" sort of thing.))
THose sound like great pieces!
I tend to spend a lot on framing, because I have to like something a lot to actually bother hauling my butt out to the framing shop Seriously, tho', I go for people who do museum/conservationist-level work.
I bought some hand-colored copperplates from a Louisian artist - his work is so fine that it looks like detailed pen-and-ink, and his birds (well, of course, what'd you expect ) are both artistic, *and* physically accurate. So I was not about to put those into cheapshit frames!
The thing is that a high-quality frame both preserves and "completes' a work of art. And adds to its value, tho' for me, the value is in my eye and in my daily enjoyment of the peices that I make part of my life.
But that 5'-piece sounds great. I'm thinking of doing up a pic in tech- pen and colored inks in a similar size - about 4.5' wide an dabout 22" high, of lilypads, with one cream-colored waterlily (not to be conceited, but I do good work when I sit my arse down and concentrate on doing it), which I also want to frame in a brushed-metal type of frame.
ANyway, I think that a brushed-metal type of molding, clean/simple but with a bit of shaping to it, could be great as molding. Again, tho', I prob need to work it up in 3D ((gotta get back to doing that as the health continues to improve!)) to see a more "concrete" example, if one can call computer 3D "concrete"
I guess I'm just tired of white-painted fir or pine or whatever cheapo wood gets used. Msot people ooh and ahhh over it, but what can I say, I'm always wanting something unique...
- Vote on answer
- posted
16 years ago
"Don" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news4.newsguy.com:
OK, brushes metal/steel/nickel was weird enough ;) - is there such a thing as *stone* used as baseboard?
- Vote on answer
- posted
16 years ago
So you get sheets of 4'x8'x7/16" plywood, say we use a width of 6", you can rip six pieces of 6"x8'x7/16". The top side would be exposed I wonder how you would finish it...would be too much trouble to veneer it, and quarter rounds are no good.
also if rooms are more than 8' in lengths to avoid having to split the baseboards in the middle of the room you have to get 12' boards or longer. Sounds interestung I have a hard time visualizing this.
Can we expand on this thought a bit?
Thanks,
MC
- Vote on answer
- posted
16 years ago
I have stone tiled baseboards in the house I am in now while I am remodeling the other one.
Speaking of the other house, there is no trim or mouldings on all exterior doors, I never give it a thought until recently when I am gutting it out I noticed the outside corners were all finished with 2x galvanized angles (not corner beads), the drywall on one side and the wood door frame on the other side were routed to the thickness of the angle to make it perfectly flushed, then painted over to the same color as the door frame.
Is this a metal door frame (trim)?
formatting link
MC
- Vote on answer
- posted
16 years ago
"Don" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news5.newsguy.com:
True ;) I have no idea whether any of my things will increase in monetary value (certainly not the clay work that one gang of a$$hole movers broke =>:-p ), but I get things because I like them. Hell, I've even ramed a couple of my own things ;) Frames can really tie a group of works to gether, and/or tie them in with other works (sculpture and the like). Since I do have a general "style", I don't worry about "matching the frame to my decor", mostly because the artwork *is* the main decor ;) - and when the art and frames andso on work together, the rest IMO falls into place anyway, since I like fairly plain or at least clean-line furniture anyway.
I found a place locally that does some very nice work - they have example saround the shop, and it's actually very interesting to see some of the things they've framed - one item is an antique Victorian silver baby spoon, which sounds a bit dopy but turned out to be very interesting, the way they did it. They're definitely artisans, so it's worth it, to me, to pay a bitmore, and get a really fine job done.
But yeah, it can cost a lot. The most expensive frame I've gotten done to date was about $375 (with tax). But why pay for an original work of art (esp. by a known artist) and then put it in some piece of cheap crap? All that happens in that case is that, in addition to looking cheap, the work becomes physically degraded...
- Vote on answer
- posted
16 years ago
"Don" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news5.newsguy.com:
Ah-ha...I could picture that with a polished stone flooring material...hmmmm...
- Vote on answer
- posted
16 years ago
"Don" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news2.newsguy.com:
I've moved more times than I have fingers and toes. I hate it. You have to pack ALL of the valuable things YOURSELF. And I swear that they purposfully bang around anything that has "fragile" writen on it. I have a
3'X2.5' stained glass window, and each time it's been moved, it's gotten another crack in one of the glass sections. I think that nezxt time, i'll pack it in a crate I make myself, and **FED-EX** it. I've never had any computers or even plants damaged by Fed-Ex, or UPS. But movers... ugh! One group of morons took a piece of art ceramic and literally just put it, unwrapped, into a box with tools and stuff. I mean, how stupid can a human being be, and still walk on two legs...? It's just unbelievable. But the absolute worst are the "corporate movers", where the company handles all of the moving details - then they *really* don't give a sh*t, becuase they know that they'll get pain no matter what.